Do you know what’s actually in your cosmetics?Animal-derived ingredients and by-products, such as crushed insects, shark liver oil, or fish scales, are probably not what you imagine when you glance at the ingredient list of your red lipstick, anti-wrinkle eye cream, or glittery nail polish. However, these animal-based components are often used in cosmetics, skincare, and hair products to achieve specific textures or serve particular functions.
For consumers looking to make more conscious choices, vegan cosmetics offer an alternative that can bebetter for both the environment and your body.
In this article, we guide you through some of theseanimal-derived ingredients, helping you become more aware of what’s actually in the products youuse.
Animal ingredients
Although animal ingredients are often classified asnaturally derived andderived in away that does not harm animals, there are minimal animal welfare measures currently in place in the cosmetics industry.
On one hand, animal-derived ingredients are often praised for theireffectiveness andunique properties, offering high performance in skin and hair care. They can providenatural nourishment andregenerative benefitsthat synthetic alternatives may not always replicate.
However, the downsides are significant. Ethical concerns surrounding the exploitation of animals, theenvironmental impactof sourcing these ingredients, andpotential allergenic risks pose challenges. Additionally, thelack of transparencyin labelling often makes it difficult for consumers to make informed choices.
Curious about what might be hiding in your cosmetics? Here are some of the most common and surprising animal-derived ingredients you need to knowabout!
Bee products
1. Beeswax is secreted by bees to build their honeycombs, which is where they breed larvae and store their pollen. Beeswax is used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier and film forming agent.
Honey is produced by the bees from the nectar on flowers, and is stored in their honeycombs. Honey is used in cosmetics as asedative, moisturiser and humectant.
2. Propolis, also called bee glue, is amixture of tree resin and bees’ digestive juices. Propolis is used in cosmetics as an antiseborrheic, moisturiser, smoothing agent, and as an antimicrobial agent in toothpaste, shampoos, deodorants, etc.
3. Bee pollen is collected by bees and used to feed their larvae. Humans collect it using pollen traps. The bee pollen is then used in cosmetics as askin conditioner just like royal jelly which is excreted by the worker bees’ glands.
Animal proteins and vitamins
There are many different proteins and vitamins found in cosmetics.
4. Keratin is aprotein found in various vertebrates’ horns, hooves, claws, nails, hair, scales, and feathers. Keratin is used in cosmetics as ahair and skin conditioner.
5. Collagen is found in the connective tissue of animals, and is extracted from bones, teeth, skin and cartilage. It is used as an active ingredient against wrinkles and as awetting agent in cosmetics. Processed collagen is also used as acosmetic ingredient, particularly collagen amino acids, and hydrolysed collagen and its derivatives. Collagen is also used in cosmetic surgery for anti-wrinkle injections.
6. Elastin is afibrous protein present in the connective tissue of animals, and used as askin conditioner.
7. Biotin is asoluble vitamin that plays an important role in cell growth and metabolism. It is used as ahair and skin conditioner in shampoos and cosmetic creams.
Silk
8. Silk forms when the natural excretions of caterpillars come into contact with air. Unfortunately, for that to happen, the caterpillars have to be boiled alive in their cocoons. The silk amino acids are then extracted from the raw silk, and used as an additive in skin and hair care products due to its high serine content which has excellent moisture-protecting properties. Silk glue, hydrolyzed silk and silk powder are all used as smoothing agents in cosmetics and hair conditioners.
Pearls
9. Mother-of-pearl is the inside lining of mollusk shells. Apearl is around deposit of mother-of-pearl which forms in these shells under certain conditions. Pearls form naturally but to satisfy industrial demands, the process of artificially provoking these conditions has developed.
“Cultured” pearls are created by inserting an irritant into the shell which causes it to produce mother-of-pearl to defend itself against the irritant. Over half of shells however do not survive this ordeal. Ahydrolyzed pearl (i.e. chemically modified mother-of-pearl powder) is used as askin conditioner in cosmetics as it helps improve the appearance of theskin.
Fish and marine animals
10. Squalene can originate from either animals, or vegetables. It occurs naturally in fish liver oil, such as shark liver oil, but also in many vegetable oils, such as olive oil… It is an emollient for hair conditioners and awrinkle filler in cosmetics.
11. Guanine can be extracted from fish scales, but it can also be synthesized. On an industrial scale, Guanine is made from the scales and skin of fish, but it can also be extracted from uric acid (a component of urine). It is used as acolouring agent in cosmetics such as shampoos, nail polish and eyeshadow.
12. Glucosamine occurs naturally in the exoskeletons of insects and crustaceans. It is also industrially extracted from the shells of crabs and shrimps. It is an ingredient in hair and skin conditioners.
13. Chondroitin is extracted from the connective tissue of animals. It is an important component of animal cartilage, and is used in hair and skin conditioners.
Cow’s milk
14. Lactoferrin and lactose are components of milk. Cows are artificially inseminated to produce more milk. The calves are removed from them and used for human consumption. Lactoferrin is an iron binding protein and is used in skin and hair conditioners. Lactose is used as ahumectant and in skin conditioner. Chemically-altered proteins are also used in conditioners.
Insects and mollusks
15. Slug mucus is collected from live snails on farms and processed for use as acosmetic ingredient. Slug mucus supposedly improves skin elasticity and helps with the healing ofscars.
16. Carmine is ared dye made from scale insects. Over 150 000 insects are needed for 1kg of dye… It is used in lipstick, lip gloss andfoods.
17. Shellac is dark brown resin made from the secretions of lac bugs. This resin is collected from the branches where the bugs live, killing many of them in the process. It is used most famously in nail polish, but is also used in softening agents, film forming agents, viscosity regulating agents and hair fixatives.
Sheep
18. Lanolin is secreted by sheep’s sebaceous glands, and is extracted by washing the sheared wool in hot water. Lanolin is used in cosmetics as an antistatic, emollient, hair and skin conditioner, surfactant and carrier.
Ready to embrace amore conscious beauty routine? Vegan cosmetics let you prioritise ethics without compromising on results. Take your more sustainable journey further and explore vegan skincare products that align with your values through the COSH! shopping guide.
Ready to explore further? Discover more conscious skin care and cosmetics for different skin types, uncover the truth behind your shiny make-up and learn more about the ABCs of cosmetic ingredients for agreener vanity.
