Audemars Piguet's 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph: A Step Closer to Perfection
After years of anticipation, Audemars Piguet has finally unveiled a long-awaited upgrade to the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph, bringing it fully into the modern era. This update addresses a key oversight in the original model, making it a more comprehensive luxury sports watch.
The Challenge of Size
For years, enthusiasts with smaller to medium-sized wrists have had to compromise with the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph. While its dimensions were ideal, the watch's key component, the movement, was an outsourced Frederic Piguet 1185, rebranded as the Caliber 2385. This limitation held the watch back from being a true all-rounder.
A Purpose-Built Movement
Audemars Piguet introduces the new Caliber 6401, a movement specifically designed for the 38mm case. This isn't a simple downsize of the Caliber 4401's architecture but a complete redesign, taking five years to perfect. The key innovation is a patented vertical clutch, simplifying the movement and enhancing the tactile feel of the pushers.
Benefits of the New Movement
The Caliber 6401 offers two significant advantages. Firstly, it boasts a longer power reserve of 55 hours, up from 40 hours. Secondly, it matches the frequency of the 41mm Calibre 4401, ensuring a consistent performance. Despite these improvements, the watch remains slim at 11.1mm.
Trade-offs and Design Choices
To maintain the 38mm's slim profile, the watch sacrifices some advanced flyback functionality, which is exclusive to the larger Calibre 4401. This decision may disappoint enthusiasts who appreciate complex watch complications.
Dial Refinements and New Features
The new movement brings subtle dial changes. The date window is now centrally positioned between the 4 and 5 o'clock indices, and the chronograph subdials have been rearranged, with the minute counter at 9 o'clock and the hour counter at 3 o'clock. Additionally, the watch features a sapphire caseback, showcasing the refined movement finishing.
Three Stylish Options
Audemars Piguet offers three new models with the Caliber 6401. The stainless steel version boasts the iconic blue 'Grande Tapisserie' dial, while two pink gold references cater to different tastes. One features a grey dial and silver-toned subdials, while the other, a more luxurious option, showcases a sand gold-toned dial, beige subdials, and a diamond-set bezel.
Pricing and Availability
The stainless steel model with the classic blue dial is priced at $43,000, a $1,500 increase from the previous model. The pink gold versions are significantly more expensive, with the grey dial variant at $84,500 and the diamond-set bezel model at $91,600.
A Near-Perfect Package
Despite the high price tag, the 38mm chronograph is now a nearly complete package. It offers the perfect dimensions for smaller to medium wrists, the in-house Caliber 6401 movement, and the timeless Royal Oak design, making it a top choice for serious collectors and enthusiasts.
